Day 08: chllin in Nakhon Si Thammarat

Aghh the pain, the pain!

Well not really, but we definitely needed a day to do as little as possible.

Nakhon Si is a cool town, the folks are really friendly and make you feel very welcome with all the smiles going back and forth. The town looks great in the afternoon as the sun sets and silhouettes the mountains to the east.

Nick said that as you get further south from Bangkok the Thai accent changes a fair amount, and people speak faster and with less words. The joke is that Southerners can have a conversation from 2 passing trains.

Nick was after some roti and curry for lunch so we ventured out of the Thai Hotel for a hunt. Turns out the roti and curries begin to be sold late in the afternoon after 6pm or so.

Stuck in the heat with not a whole lot of brain power between the 2 of us we ducked into “the Ocean” shopping mall and got a box of donuts.

Night rolled around and it was time for roti.

Yes, all we do is eat it seems.

I had a great massage yesterday and a decent sleep so I think I’ll be fresh for the ride south to Hua Sai tomorrow. Possibly the best massage I have ever had, and for 200 baht for 2 hours!

Total km: 0

Day 07: Than Phannara to Nakhon Sri Thammarat

Left the ‘love shack’ at Than Phannara around 7am an headed down highway 41, but then took a left down highway 4195 towards the mountains and then onto highway 4015 – towards Nakhon Sri Thammarat!


Was a great morning through this area, great jungle/forest around, lots of little villages to pass through, some big mountains with clouds floating past, very green.





We crossed through the Nakhon Sri Thammarat mountains after a fairly decent accent – Nicholas managed to beat it, my lack of gears got the better of me and had to walk it. Errrrr.


But the ride down the hill was cool – pretty steep and no traffic. My iPhone says i got my bike up to 92.1 km/h!


The rest of the ride into Nakhon Sri Thammarat was nice and flat, but HOT.



Total km: 78 km
Max Speed: 92.1 km/h

Day 06: Phunphin to Than Phannara

Phunpin is a great . Little town in Surathani province. The train station where most tourists come to to make their way to get the bust to the ferries to Koh Samui.


Kind of a nothing day, highway riding and very hot. After yesterday’s ride I am feeling pretty stuffed!


Stopped at a roadside hotel, a.k.a a “mahn rooht” hotel (sliding curtain), the kind where folks go to shag their neighbours/others.




very sore hands!
very sore hands!


Total km: 62 km

Max Speed: 41.3 km/h

Day 05: Chumpon to Phunphin

What a day!

We left Chumpon about 6.30am and got back onto the highway and spent the rest of the day riding – for 186km!
MotionX GPS app on my iPhone says e were riding for over 9 hours straight, averaging 21 km/h.
Highways are definitely easier riding than the ‘shortcuts’.
I am very surprised. I guess the 300baht massage yesterday and a reasonably long sleep really paid off!
Not much to really say about yesterday except that we aimed to get to a town called Chaya and spend the night there, but we just kept of riding.

We figured we’d find a place to crash for the night in a town called Ta Chang, unfortunately there was no where to stay when we got there!

So 25km or so into the night we made it to Phun Pin – a town close to Surathani town.
Nicholas just reminded me to put down that we saw a lot of dead dogs and snakes along the side of the road.

Staying at the only hotel in town: Queen Hotel just near the train station – not bad, room with 2 large single beds and a fan/shower/toilet – 260baht



Total km: 186km

Day 04: Ban Boet to Chumpon

6.30am left Ban Boet. Road solidly for an hour along the coastline and then went inland, picked up some sticky rice and carved our way through the jungle to Don Yang.
Riding along the coast before sunrise is a great way to start the day.

It’s really is beautiful out here, people doing their thing on their farms or stores, everyone seems pretty happy.

Everyone since Bangkok has assumed Nicholas to be a farang (foreigner). I think it’s driving him a little crazy and giving him a identity disorder. I was riding next to him today and he was talking in some weird germanic language. Yeah, he’s losing it.

It’s a lot more hilly down here, more pain.

Nicholas nearly got bitten by a snake, but i think he really just ran over a stick. But he is sure is was a snake. He says it was a little horrifying.

Had a great lunch up in the hills in between Pathiu and Chumpon – “Laht Nah” – something along the lines of noodles in sticky sauce. Passed out for half an hour and then hit the road again.
Strange though, within 30 minutes I was starving again and got that wobbly no energy feeling. Had to get a quick cola/sugar/biscuit fix then slowly came back to life.

15km or so we made it into Chumpon.

My legs are lead

We’ve been getting a bunch more video so hopefully we’ll be able to cut something together at the end of the trip. Perhaps what we lack in charisma we’ll have made up in kilometres.

total km today: 86km

Day 03: Prachuab Khiri Khun to Ban Boet

Left Prachuab Khiri Khun around 5.30am and managed to get on to the highway as the sun really got up.
Nicholas picked up some ‘meat on a stick’ and sticky rice to munch on later.
Riding in the rain – as good fun as yesterday.
Many little hills, not too bad. Possibly have more strength/stamina than yesterday.

Around lunchtime we stopped to fix Nicholas’ seat (would be a regular a event for today) and met an old bloke who recommended a short cut to Bang Saphan Noi. Cheers Uncle!
Very cool to ride past the farms that are so close to the sea. Not sure what the are growing there but looked like it was working.
We rode through a bunch of villages and the people are so friendly!
If you’re ever down this part of Thailand make sure you get off the highway and spend some time driving around.
Lunch – amazing fried chicken “guy tot” with sticky rice and some tasty soup. The ladies working here were really funny. Apparently one of them wanted to join us (more interested in Nicholas than myself I was told later) to Bang Saphan Noi for some lovin’ later that night! Horny old lady.
At a point it seemed that Uncle’s shortcut was not really that short but before we knew it we found out we were pretty close to Bang Saphan Noi.
I think around 2pm we passed Bang Saphan Yai and I started to flake out as I seem to do in the heat. Eventually we passed through Bang Saphan Lek and decided to ride on to Ban Boet.
As I was flaking out we luckily passed by a turn off to a waterfall and went for a swim. Hell yeah! That recharges the batteries – followed by a packet of chips, a fanta and a bottle of water.
Forgot to mention, drinking lots of water, maybe 3 litres a day – i think it is turning straight to steam!

The last hour or so we fought the good fight against some significantly steeper/longer hills than yesterday, which were made more difficult by the fact we had spent most of the day covering over 100km in the heat.

Getting into Ban Boet was a perfect ending to the day’s ride – all down hill and in the afternoon shade.
Ban Boet – next to the beach, dogs getting it on on the street, small town, big cliffs out to sea, nice food
Staying at the “Khun Thong” hotel – 300baht/night. Clean, friendly, fan rooms
Right now drinking a beer and sitting by the sea.
Tomorrow… Chumpon?

Day 02: Cha-am – Prachuab Khiri Khun

(combined from day 01’s ride)

It’s been a hard 2 days of riding, but i think we are starting to get rhythm.

Left the primo residence of Nick’s Aunty’s place at 5am, bag of left overs in hand.

The morning was interesting.

As we road the 15km to Hua Hin, the morning light started to pierce through the sky, and revealed some bad ass looking clouds in the sky. The big wet season “stay inside or die” type clouds.
Eating our left over dinner outside 711 we decided to throw precaution to the wind and roll on down the road.

Well it rained. And we kept on riding. Yep it was really not the big issue that folks had been warning us of.
It was actually a lot more comfortable than yesterday’s heat & wind.
Nick was worried about picking up a cold being out in the rain but i told him he was a pussy and we kept on riding. As we pedaled on and the rain kept on coming down, and I rethought Nick’s idea about getting sick. I agreed momentarily with him and stopped by to pick up some supplies from the cute girl working the chemist in Kuiburi. Ahhh she was beautiful.

After overpaying for lunch we left Kuiburi for the last few hours to Prachuab Khiri Khun.
Not as much excitement here as was in Kuiburi but we did meet our first slightly imposing hill.
To most riding folks it probably isn’t even considered an incline. But, it was raining, windy, a dog chased me 100m up the hill, and i was pretty tired.

We cruised in Prachuab Khiri Khun – cool little town by the sea – Small, interesting, next to the sea, crap french fries, awesome nam dofu.

Nopporn hotel – 400baht – free wifi, great rooms, clean and friendly

Before my iPhone’s battery died, MotionXGPS’s recording said we rode 130km or so.
I have to say, a good night’s sleep really really helps!

Day 01: Bye Bye Bangkok


During a last minute trip to pick up some small travel sleeping bags Nicholas and I came to the conclusion to depart a day early.



Nick’s Dad, Mr Ward, was kind enough to drop us over the other side of the Chao Praya which ended up probably saving us 50km or so of inner Bangkok madness.


So we hit highway 35 and kept up the pace with the trucks, buses and other folks driving at warp speed.


It was all going pretty smoothly for the first 2 hours or so and then the sun decided it was time to call it a night. My bike started to fall apart and make weird noises but luckily it held itself together.

We rode into the night for another hour or so and ended up at a town called Samut Songkram. Found a place to crash for a few hours called the “Mae Klong” – 200baht.
Reasonable price, but got bugger all sleep.

That afternoon’s total km: 60km

4.30am we skipped town and headed off towards Cha-am. Riding in the morning is awesome. Not hot, not so many people around, and you get to see everything wake up. For breakfast – sticky rice cooked in bamboo – tasty stuff!


But as the sun eventually made itself known I began to feel the effects of it, and the lack of sleep. 25km or so out of Cha-Am the heat was oppressive and the wind just really smashed me around. Wind = sucks.

Anyway we made it, Nick powered on steadily throughout the whole day, I tried 🙂
Now chillin at Nick’s Aunty’s place in Cha-Am – amazing!


Early night tonight. Off to … Prachuap Khiri Khun